1.    First the case was completely deburred and stress relieved inside and out.   Then all oil return holes were radiused to promote quicker oil return.   Petcocks were installed in the sides of the block in the water drain holes where pipe plugs normally reside to ease block flushing.   DORMAN HPX brass freeze plugs are also used.   All threaded holes were cleaned using a tap to ensure accurate torque readings when assembling the engine.

1.    Petcocks installed in water drains on both sides of the block aide in cooling system maintenance.

2.    Next, the '68 large journal forged steel 327 crank (from an old Chevy truck), 8" steel harmonic balancer, Camaro flywheel (10.5" clutch-disc type), Chevy Pink rods equipped with SPS rod bolts, TRW forged pistons, TOTAL SEAL gapless rings, and CLEVITE 77 bearings were all balanced.   All weights were recorded for future use, and came in handy when I had to replace a piston, maintaining the balance.

3.    To aid in oil control, I tailored a MOROSO crank scraper to clear the 327 crank and added a MILODON Diamond Stripper windage tray mounted to a 4-bolt main stud kit.   The factory V8 oil pan was relieved slightly below the left stud and nut of of the second main cap of the windage tray.   A MOROSO lifter valley screen kit and custom made lifter valley breathers installed in the oil-return holes near each lifter bore, and a MOROSO lifter valley baffle keeps the hot oil from splashing on the bottom of the intake manifold and broken parts from finding their way to the reciprocating assembly.   A MELLING hi-volume oil pump is used with a MOROSO oil pump drive shaft and factory pick-up.   The oil filter adapter bypass was tapped and plugged to force ALL oil through the filter.   If you perform the same modification, you MUST use an oil pressure gauge to monitor the oil pressure.   A normal pressure at start-up followed by a gradual yet significant reduction in pressure usually indicates the oil-filter is dirty and needs to be replaced.

3.    Oil filter adapter with by-pass valve plugged.   This is done by removing the retainer, spring and valve, and then tapping the orifice with a pipe tap and then installing a pipe plug.   This ensures ALL oil will go through the filter.   The oil filter MUST be replaced whenever the oil pressure gauge indicates a drop in pressure.   Otherwise the engine will soon destroy itself due to lack of oil.

4.    After that I then ported and port matched the 186 casting Chevy heads.   Removing unwanted material from between the valve seat and the bowl area, opening and blending deep into the ports to match MR. GASKET 101 intake and exhaust gaskets, as well as unshrouding and polishing the chambers.   The heads then were machined to accept screw-in rocker arm studs and Big Block valve springs.   Care must be taken when cutting bigger spring pads since the 186 castings are thin in this area.   MANLEY pushrod guideplates were then installed.

5.    A CRANE cam is used with TRW lifters, MANLEY chromemoly pushrods, CRANE double springs, titanium retainers and keepers and Crane Full Roller Rockers with MR. GASKET poly locks.   A MR. GASKET chrome 2 piece timing cover hides the TRUE ROLLER dual roller timing set which will soon be replaced by a Pete Jackson timing gear set.

6.    A factory V8 Monza oilpan is used and yes it clears the MILODON windage tray just fine although I'm considering replacing the pan with one of higher capacity, maybe a MILODON unit.

7.    The intake manifold, an EDELBROCK C3B dual-plane is sometimes replaced with a Victor Jr.   The intake has been highly modified to enhance to flow at high RPMs and is equipped with a HOLLEY 750 carburetor, homemade aluminum carburetor heatshield, and an AC DELCO 14" by 5" chrome air cleaner.   The thermostat housing is a cast-iron factory unit painted white to combat heat.   Without the white paint, the fuel in the floatbowls of the carb literally boils.   The exhaust gasses exit via a pair of Hedman V8 Vega headers connected to 2.5 inch pipes.   A crossover pipe connects both sides for an increase in low-end torque, twin turbo mufflers are mounted in the factory muffler location.

7.    Before the EDELBROCK intake and Hedman headers, I used a Corvette L-82 aluminum Q-Jet intake manifold with an 850 cfm Quadrajet and Don Hardy's V8 Vega headers.   I made some modifications to the L-82 intake such as port matching, blocking the heat risers, and removing some of the plenum divider.   The result was a very responsive wide torque curve which enabled the car to reach 165+ MPH.

8.    The ignition is an MSD-8500 6AL HEI kit that really lights under just about any condition.   The factory HEI distributor is also equipped with a MR. GASKET advance curve kit, adjustable vacuum advance, and BLUE STREAK cap and rotor.   I hope to upgrade to a Mallory Unilite BEI distributor.

9.    Other components include: MOROSO aluminum water pump and electric water pump drive.   MOROSO deep groove aluminum alternator and crank pulleys.   HOLLEY polished aluminum valve covers.   AC DELCO hi-volume electric marine fuel pump back by the fuel tank.   CARTER Z/28 mechanical fuel pump.   RCI Pro Street fuel cell.   The engine is mounted via a factory driver's side and passenger's side mount, both are welded solid .   Considering new factory mounts are nearly impossible to find and will set you back about $85 each, I could make you one or a set if the price is right.

10.    The drivetrain consists of a Muncie M21 4-speed shifted by a HURST Super Shifter III sometimes replaced with a MR. GASKET Vertical Gate shifter.   The 10.25" clutch is contained by a LAKEWOOD scattershield customized to accommodate a modified Monza clutch arm and factory clutch cable.   For those who don't have a scattershield, the 10.25" clutch will fit in the factory V8 Monza bellhousing.   You don't have to make your own scattershield, Lakewood makes one specifically for the H-Body and uses the stock clutch cable, pivot, bearing, and throw-out arm (available from PAW P/N LAK-15010 $329.95).   The pilot bushing in the crankshaft is a GM 6.2 diesel roller pilot bearing (much cheaper than the MOROSO unit and it has more rollers).   The factory 7.5" rear axle housing has been equipped with an AUBURN posi-traction, COMPETITION ENGINEERING Vega adjustable coil spring traction bars, and Chevy S10 axles.   I hope to soon upgrade to lower gears, at least until I can get my Ford 9" with 5.14 gears and a spool narrowed.

10.    A Lakewood scattershield bellhousing was modified to use a modified Monza clutch arm and unmodified clutch cable.   The explosion proof bellhousing will keep my toes and feet intact in case of a flywheel or clutch failure.  I've been in a vehicle that had a stock bellhousing when the flywheel exploded.   The bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch assembly were all in pieces no bigger than marbles.   The floor and the headers were shredded.   We were lucky that the previous owner had installed new carpet over the original carpet which combined to serve as a sort of flak vest during the incident.

11.    At present, I'm rebuilding the engine.   In the plans are stainless valves, bronze valve guides, Pete Jackson gear drive, and dual remote oil filters.   I'm also considering using TORQUE PLUS intake manifold gaskets as I've done some experimentation in this area with a big block Chevy with great results.   So look forward to more info to come.

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